What to do with a frozen duck? When there is a good deal on duck, buy three. One for gumbo and two for when you're friends come over. You'll see why below.
First matter of business is the whole duck. Defrost it and when soft, get to working.
First remove breasts--Magret du Canard is one of the greatest things in life. Be careful removing wish bone and slice against bone until its freed. Then remove back-side and legs--they come off fairly easily if you find the tendons.
Save all fat.
Again, save ALL fat.
If you are doing a gumbo, this is easy and you don't have to worry about neatness. Just remove all the fat and save it. Remove all meat from bones and save that separately. Ideally, the gumbo will have 4 legs, 2 thighs and 2 breasts. Save 4 breasts for those great friends coming over--when you can grill them ever so gently with a little Armagnac and salt/pepper. (Duck legs great for confit--notice the rendering fat section at the end of post--that's what you use to store legs in...)
The gumbo--I don't care what you put it in it. This time I'm only using one duck--all the meat chopped up. After carving off the meat and fat and setting aside, I made a duck stock. You don't get as much as normally needed for a gumbo (but if you have three carcasses you certainly would), so I always have to add some chicken stock. But some stock better than none.
Buy the best andouille you can get. Try to get homemade stuff if you're not in Cajun country, otherwise, just go to the butcher. Charlie T's in Breaux Bridge makes the best I've ever had, though some of my friends would attest to their own parents' versions.
Gumbo easy after this. Brown andouille, remove, brown duck, remove, sautee 2 chopped onions, chopped bell pepper, 2 stalks chopped celery, and 6 cloves crushed garlic in remaining fat from sausage and duck. Salt, pepper, Konriko Creole spice. After the vegetables release significant amount of liquid, add meat and about 6 cups broth, glob of wine, bay leaf and some more spice. Bring to boil and reduce to simmer. Let her go for 1 hour and then add half chopped onion and half chopped pepper. Another hour and the other half chopped onion, half chopped pepper and 3-6 more cloves crushed garlic. drops of Garlic flavored Tabasco and pepper. Let her cook some more. Add roux. Cook another 30 minutes. Then add sliced okra for last 30 minutes. Finished. Serve over Cajun Rice.
As for the duck skins and fat--render it. Put in skillet and cook over low for several hours (2-3) until all the pieces are crispy brown. Then strain it and save. You should have nice golden brown fat left over. This is a prize, truly and should be coveted.
Sunday, November 23, 2008
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